My car is asking for attention again.
Today on my way to work, it decided that the clutch would just go down to the floor. No real reason, just boom. no clutch - as horror theories go through my head, I check the slave - seems fine. Check the line, no leaks. Reservoir is empty - DOH!!! Luckily some group of guys pull up in a minivan and offer a ride.
Quick trip to a nearby gas station for some fluid and I'm almost good to go, except that the line has a air bubble in it so I have to bleed it. and bleeding clutch by yourself with no speed bleeders is a bitch. I guess I should consider myself lucky for replacing that loop with a stainless steel line, so it only takes a few minutes.
I still got to mess around with the new oil temp/pressure sensors as I think I got a leak around one of them.

This weekend was a killer, but I got my car back on the road again and did everything I wanted to it.
Saturday was pretty much doing tires all day for Matt, which was fun but at the same time so much work. We went and fixed my toe, which was waaaaay out. I think I got a slight toe in now, but its still not centered. No matter, it drives better than before and thats all that matters.
Sunday I spent doing the Tomei oil block install. And a word of advice to whoever is swapping in a SR20DET in their car. If you think you might go with this mod later down the road - DO IT BEFORE you put the motor in!! Its such a big PITA to get to, luckily my GF was there to help out. I don't think I would have done it without her help. Tightening the AN lines was interesting too, with my hands up in the air most of the day it wasn't fun experience, but we got it done.
Vinny showed up later on in the day to help me mess with the timing, and we got the timing issues ironed out, which pretty much corssed off the last thin on the TO DO list for the weekend.
Sunday afternoon I also found out that the SuperHicas S13 I had for sale on eBay, was sold and I received the down payment for it earlier today. So I will be getting some more goodies for my S14 Kouki soon. But I'll post that in the other blog when I get rest of the $$ and start ordering parts.

Setting the deceleration on the AFC - FreshAlloy.com Forums: "Start when the car is cold. (after an overnight rest)

Turn key on, go to decel air settings.

Set throttle to 1%.

Set NE1 to about 4.

Set NE2 to about 5.

Start car.

Adjust NE1 until you get a smooth idle while the engine is still cold. Now start turning it down as low as possible while still maintaining a good idle.

If the car starts sputtering and getting rough, you just went too low. Turn it back up very slowly until it smooths out. You want to leave NE1 on the lowest possible point with a good idle.

Now set NE2 to be about 1 higher than NE1.

This formula shoudl eliminate any stalling or popping from the BOV being open.



Theory: Throttle setting tells the SAFC whenever the pedal is depressed less than 1%, the SAFC should control fuel and ignore everything else (including the MAF)

NE1 is the first RPM point you have selected in your NE Point settings. I put mine at 1000 rpm. I set NE2 at 3000, then NE3 at 4000, and so on in 1000 increments. Setting NE1 down at 1000 gives you the ability to control fuel at idle really well. Besides, you probably don't need to adjust anything between 1000 and 3000. (turbo spools after that, right?)

Setting the air flow percentage at NE1 is basically telling the SAFC a number to use whenever it reaches that RPM and less than the throttle setting. So, as the throttle is let off, the SAFC looks at the NE1 and NE2 points. As RPM rolls back, there is going to be a reduction in air into the engine, yet the MAF has already seen it. The stock ECU is attempting to send the fuel for that air that is now missing... hence your stalling and backfiring. The SAFC catches that signal, ignores it, then tells the ECU exactly how much air flow you have according to your DEC AIR settings at those RPM points. Get it?

RPM comes down, hits NE2, SAFC sees 10%. It tells the ECU it needs 5%. (because you picked that number.) Now the RPM won't dive so hard like it was. It reaches NE1, SAFC sees 6%, you told it 4% and it tells the computer only 4%. The idle sets steadily down to where its supposed to and everybody is happy.

The SAFC is all about tricking the ECU into doing what you want it to."

Hugh FTMFW!!!!!!!