Zilvia.net Forums - HOWTO: Wire up those S13 Silvia Fog Lights "56k BEWARE!": "Safety Notice: Work on your car at your own risk. While this project may work flawlessly in my car it might cause your's to explode. Having said that evaluate what you are doing carefully electrical fires are no fun

Hello all I just wanted to shed some light on wiring up the silvia fog lights in the triple projectors. Many folks already know how to wire the lights into the existing circuitry by splicing into the brown and the black wire located on the old popup harness. That is initially what worked for me and I had no complaints as the pop-up button functioned as a foglight on/off button & whenever I turned on my headlights at the stalk the foglights would also come on.

It wasn't until I was following a friend that it was pointed out to me that when the headlights were on the foglights were prone to random flickering. I could resolve this problem by turning the pop-up button on but to me that wasn't an acceptable permanent solution. I decided to take the time and go over the 90 240sx schematics and figure out how to isolate the stalk from turning on the fog lights and just allowing the pop-up light to work. Initially I was overwhelmed by the mess of diagram's nissan passes off as schematics, but once I got to tracing it out on paper I was able to come up with a ridiculously easy fix. All you have to do is remove the retractor relay #4 and this knocks the headlight timing circuit out of the loop for the fog lights. In the attached schematics I took the time to highlight the path the current takes through the circuit 'Blue' is for the circuit under battery power, 'Green' is under alternator power, Red is for the power that gets sent from the pop-up switch to the lights (This power you can see comes from either the alternator or the battery source). I took the time to include the diagram of the engine bay and highlighted the relay to pull.

Further inspection of the relay ladder resulted in me removing all 4 retractor relay assemblies; however, if you chose to remove relay's 1 & 2 you will have to jumper the connections that are NOT across the coil. This has to be done because the relay is an NC type (Normally Closed) and when you pull the relay you open the circuit and remove the ground signal going to your headlights.

I hope this is useful for anyone out there trying to figure out how to wire up the circuit or how the circuit works. If anyone care's to point out mistakes or misconceptions I would be happy to discuss them. I am a technician and not an engineer so I'm bound to have oversimplified it"

There has been some progress while I wasn't posting. Lets see, the sunroof if amost done, which was pretty easy. The oil temp problem has been solved. The boost gauge is getting some new plumbing and the water temp has been verified to be functional and should be installed soon. I also managed to get the Carbon Fiber hood picked up from Chuck (aka BattleStyleSPL) over in WI, which was pretty fun trip in a car with no cruise, no AC, broken hatch on one of the hottest days of the year.

Nismo Powerbrace DIY :D

Zilvia.net Forums - Possible front chassis brace... ideas..: "Did somebody say homemade nismo powerbrace? Free DIY shit is the best. It's been working great for a year now.

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AC with SR anyone??

Zilvia.net Forums - A/C after SR-swap: "! HOW TO USE KA24DE A/C SYSTEM WITHOUT ANYTHING CUSTOM !
Make shure you read this al the way through before trying it because there is an important note at the end.

A little info for those trying to have a/c on the old sr, stay with the ka compressor if you had an ka24de.

Also be aware that tere are 2 types of compressors for the ka24de Both are factory and have the calsonic label on them. One of them has the smaller of the 2 clutches and it the clutch is black. This one bolts upto the sr braket with all 4 bolts BUT the pulley does not line up perfectly as was previously mentioned.YOU DO NOT NEED ANY CUSTOM BRAKET TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM ! I have come up with a much easier solution to this problem. That is to use a diffirent belt. The stock belt is a 4 ribbed belt. What i did was i went to NAPA and got a 3 ribbed belt with the same lenght Part NO. 25-030350. What you do is you puth the belt on the inside of the crank pulley and then let it ride on the outside of the a/c compressor pulley. I ran it like this for a while with no problems Then i screwed up the compressor (dont ask) and now i went to a different compressor just because i found it at the junkyard cheap.

The other type of compressor that comes with the ka24de has a big gold color clutch and will only line up 2 bolts. This one lines up perfectly with the other pulley and can use stock a/c belt. I have had this setup about a month now with no problems as of yet.

(!IMPORTANT! remove the center bolt from the SR compressor braket or else it will puncture the side of the ka compressor when you tighten it down,dont ask how i know)"

Yay.
The SPL lines are going to be here Today!!! I can't wait to come back form work and install them :D I will have to go to Pinyo's to get the ebrake cables hooked up, but its all smooth sailing from here, I HOPE!

Yesterday I picked up the caliper that arrived and tried putting it on. But it turns out that my rear lines are fukked. So I got them from Kuah @ SPLParts.com He's a good guy, got the fronts for the S14 from him and they worked out great.
So now I got a order that should be here sometime next week, Can't go to dyno on Sat. But I am going to make the WindyCityMiataClub event this Sunday. It looks promising so far.
As for today, I stopped by Nissan and my boy Angel, hooked me up with the studs for the Z32 rear and lug nut that I was missing on S14. All is well, I just got to get the Sileighty on the road.