Find more JGTC car pics over at the JGTCA.com site

Got a couple of new pics of the S14, so I wanted to post them up.




Regular shot, because I know some people don't like the angled ones.

SPL Parts
Blitz Powermeter-iD install using Consult port

Zilvia.net Forums - Just wanna confirm this is the right LSD: "You will also need 2 longer mounting bolts for the S13 chassis, and 2 large washers for the front mounts...to be used with the large bushings on the front mounts.

They are M12 X 1.25 thread/pitch, 85mm long...'"


Just adding to the shopping list ;)

So before you start worrying about what the hell are the links that I am posting, I am just trying to reference as much stuff about the Nissan's consult port as I can. I want to make sure my SR powered S13 can be as easly readable as the S14 is. Plus there is some cool software out there that reads it :D

More Consult info....

Ztechz Forums :: View topic - Can possiable connect consult to ECU S14 Offline?: "For the consult connector, I just cut one from an S13. This allowed me to simply match up the wires by color. If you don't have this luxury, then follow along below.

Consult connector (car side) looking into the terminals, are numbered like this:
/ 1 2 3 ....
\ 8 9 10....

Pin 1 = Green/Black = goes to ECU pin 21
Pin 2 = Green = goes to ECU pin 22
Pin 6 = Green/Red = goes to ECU pin 47
Pin 7 = Green/Blue = 12V
Pin 8 = Black = GND
Pin 9 = Green/White = goes to ECU pin 31"

This is a worthwile find. So I am posting it.


PLMS SR20 Wiring Looms: "What parts do I need to run an SR20 with the factory EFI system?

Most importers know which parts need to be supplied with an engine package to get it going, but below is a checklist to keep 'em honest:

* EFI wiring loom (uncut!)
* ECU
* Airflow Meter
* Igniter


The following parts should still be mounted on the engine, but sometimes they go missing or get damaged, so it's worth checking when you buy your engine:

* O2 Sensor You should find this mounted in the section of exhaust just after the turbo. They are easily damaged so check that it's OK. There are two types - bigg'uns (18mm thread - usually found on the later 'black top' S13 SR's) and small'uns (12mm thread - usually found on earlier 'red top' S13 SR's).
* Speed Sensor. These are fitted in the gearbox where you'd normally expect to find the speedo cable. Normally treated as 'optional'. See more on this below under 'Speed Sensor Interface'.
* Crank Angle Sensor (Dizzy). Another one that is easily damaged. Check the connector on the loom that plugs into this one too. It is right at the front of the engine making these the most often damaged part.
* All factory engine sensors (TPS, 2x water temp sensors, detonation sensor). It's rare to have problems with these. The detonation sensor is nestled down under the inlet manifold mounted to the side of the engine block so it's well protected. Water temp sensors are a similar story. They are both mounted in the thermostat housing just next to the throttle body. One is for supplying a temp signal to the ECU (the 2 way one) and the other is for the temp gauge (single way).
* Coils and coils sub-loom
* Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Strangely enough this is to be found on the throttle body! Responsible for really messing up an SR if it is dodgy or adjusted incorrectly. The one thing to watch out for here is that the auto and manual versions are different. See below."

So, the rear brake swap turns out to be easy or hard, depending on what order you do it in. Of course I find out how easy it is after doing it the wrong way first. Since I am replacing the e-brake shoes, I found that its the easiest to do with the e-brake assembly off the spindle and with the hub off. This of course is obvious to me only after I put on the one side. Sheeesh!!!
For all you readers out there, if you ever decide to do this, start by taking apart the Z32 rear brakes/ebrake, replacing the pads in the caliper, than doing the ebrake, trim off the splash shields, as they are most likely rusted. Than go over to the car, proceed to remove the caliper, rotor, splash shield, than the hub. Replace in the opposite order.
This way will save you some time, agrivation and you can be rolling on your new brakes sooner.

Damn the Z brakes are a pain!! I need a week off now, hehe. Anyway, I started the 5lug/Z brake install tonight. It seems that I should have held off till tomorrow and read up on the Z32 rear brake assembly before going ahead and start pulling parts off.
But hey, I got a little excited, as its hot as hell, and stared the sucka. I pretty much removed the S13 upright and took off the brakes. Only to notice that since I don't have/want to buy Z32 shocks, I better leave this sucker be. Than I had to remove the Z hub and ebrake assembly from the Z32 upright. And since the dust shield was rotted all to hell, I just cut off all the unnecessary rusted part. Than figured I might as well do the same to the other Z32 upright. With parts ready to install, I had little time before it started getting dark (Spotlights kick ass to solve that problem hehe). But came up with another snag as the ebrake mounting bolt that goes through the upright didn't want to fit inside, so I had to do a little massaging of the parts before they would finally bolt up. Than I started to bolt in the upright, which went slow without air tools (I couldn't use them after 10:30 w.o the neighbors getting mad) so I decided to dis-assemble the caliper, put on the rotor and the wheel and worry about the rest tomorrow, when the air tools are usable again.
I had fun, it wasn't as difficult after doing the Z32 brakes on the S14, as a lot of the stuff was alike. Now off to get some rest and be up and ready tomorrow, maybe I'll make the meet too.

More stuff in the car, I also managed to put on my door panels and the car starts looking like a daily driver now. Wow. Its a change from the hunk of metal it was for a while now. Got to work more on the interior, double checking of stuff and I am hoping to get the 5lug swap on the rear this weekend.

So after few rides around the block, I keep tightning, putting back on and double checking stuff. There is still noise coming from the rear, so I changed the diff fluid, and took her for another spin. There is still noise, so its probably a frozen caliper and/or rusted brakes. Time to go the 5 lug route. But for some reason I think its going to be the best if its done @ Angel's.
I also went and tightened up my exhaust and managed to fuck up my finger a little. Hopefully it will be OK by tommorow so I can start wrenching.
Ahhh the fun never stops.

After some creative vaccum hose routing, I was able to get the car off the jackstands and rolled her out of the garage.
Sure the tranny sensors aren't hooked up, nor are most of the aftermarket gauges, but hey, I got to start this sucker up. So, I did. The motor ran like a champ, with a little weird idle at first, but with time it settled. I revved it up a few times and the sweet sound of the HKS SSQV at 11PM is like music to my ears.

Now the few issues I know of. The exhaust seems to be knocking in a funny way, got to check out the mounting points.
Battery isn't tied down, yet.
Wiring up the lights and power to the gauges.
Hooking up signal wires to gauges.
Mounting of the gauge pod on dash - a little weird for now, but hey. The Shit brown dash is a spare, so I am experimenting with it.
Installing the door panels, probably tomorrow.
Changing the tranny/diff fluids.
Checking the brakes.

I just finished the Z32 26mm front brake swap on my S14, and I do have to say that it was pretty easy. On a scale from 1to10 I would give it about 3.
Some things to keep in mind.
A, its messy, so have rags/newspaper/etc for the brake fluid.
B. Cut off wheel is a must, as the dust shields have to be cut (in my case cut off)
C. You need 2 people to bleed the brakes OR speed bleeders.

Now for 5 lug people, S14SE wheels clear 26mm brakes, and I am told that will clear 30mm ones too, but I got the 26mm ones so I can verify those, but supposedly these are the same as S14 in Japan where they came with the 4 piston brakes.
SOME S13 alloy wheels will clear ONLY 26mm ones, search on FA/Zilvia for pictures to show you if you got the right style wheel (there is 1 that will and 1 that wont).

Getting lines from SPL would be best, they fit great and are pretty much direct swap for the stock brake line. They even fit into the OEM clips.
Tools needed:
19mm socket (hold the caliper)
7/16 and 9/16 wrenches (for SS line fittings)
10mm socket (wrench (bleeder screw)
12mm socket (line bracket)
Cut-off wheel (cut the dust shields)
Brake fluid
Brake Parts cleaner
Rags
Antisieze
I would also suggest using some kind of tube to put on the bleeder to have the fluid go directly into a pan/canister etc. Otherwise it can get a little messy.

install itself is very simple, and pretty fast. 2-4hrs depending on how fast you work, maybe less. I was doing a lot of goofing off and explaining everything to the missus so it took us a little longer.

As far as the shields, you can remove the lip or as much of it as you can, I cut mine up almost completely off. *I took them completely off from the spindles I will be using in S13.*

Due to different size of Master Cylinders on the S- and Z-chassis there seems to be a lot of talk about the brake pedal feel, I payed special attention to the feel/height/stiffness of it for about a week now, and on my way to the meet, I drove a little bit more aggressively and I managed to get my S14 to have pretty bad brake fade.
After the install of Z32 brakes, doing pretty extensive bleeding (wanted to get most of the old fluid out) and proper brake break-in procedure, the pedal feel is the SAME, pedal height is the SAME, and the pedal stiffness is the SAME as stock S14 single piston caliper brakes. Stopping seem to have improved, but since my S14 pads were pretty much in a DIRE need of a replacement, and are probably a POS autozone special, I cannot compare them to the MetalMaster brake pads I have now as far as distance, and I haven't measured the 60-0.
This is all done WITHOUT the Z32 master cylinder.
I will post an update later on when I do Z32 on all four corners on the S13, without a Z32 MC.
Keep in mind, I used 26mm brakes, new pads/rotors. It may differ if you are going with 30mm.

So if you are thinking about getting the Z32, I would strongly suggest it.
the calipers are about 110 bucks new at autozone, lines are 45 at SPL, all required Z32 brake caliper hardware is 25 shipped from Nissan, than just add the brake pads/rotors of your choice and you've got great system.

PS. I heard that Nopi has killer deal on brakes, (Z rotors for under 25? IIRC)

So today, after some serious digging into the car, I managed to get her started. It wasn't the picture perfect start I was hoping for, and it sure wasn't easy to get her to start. But let me start from the beggining.
I pretty much started off with double checking the oil lines, and after noticing that the AN lines were loose on the engine block, I had to squeeze my huge hands in that little space to tighten the suckers. Than it became pretty clear that the battery cable wiring had to be worked out, so I managed to find a great spot for it to go along the right side of the car, and even a gromet big enough for it to fit through, without major bends. Battery placement in the trunk isn't final yet, as I will have to secure it down to the floor, but for now it just sits there. I still have to make the positive end in the engine bay look a lot better than it does right now, and wrap it up with electrical tape, as well as the end by the starter.
Once those issues were solved, I decided not to finish up the vaccum lines, but start her up, but all I got was some constant turning over. I had fuel, I had spark, but still, it didn't start. HeavyThrottle's FAQ says to check timing, so I had to ask some assistance from my bro, who after some fukking around in the engine compartment, decided that we needed to pull off the valve cover (read: I had to do it, while he carried on bullshitting around with the neighbor) Later on, I showed him how the CAS had to be alligned, and we went on trying to get to the 2 silver marks, but gave up and just got to TDC without referencing to them. Setting the CAS was pretty easy, and once it was installed, I re-installed the valve cover, and proceded to turn her over.... But still no luck. I decided to take a short brake, cool off as it was humid and hot. Came back, and noticed that the CAS plug wasn't plugged in. DOH!!!!!!!
Plugged it in, and the motor did fire up. The oil idiot light went off, and the idle was pretty bad, but I think that after the vaccum lines are hooked up, it will purr like a kitten. And I give myself a week to get her there.
I still need to wire up the aftermarket sensors and little odds and ends here and there, but its mostly complete. I want to test drive it next Saturday. :D
Since this is kind of a top secret, you will not be actually able to read this post untill I drive the car, as to not let the cat out of the bag.... But yeah, She started, and I am a happy man!!!!!!!

To think that only a year ago, I blew up my motor in the civic. Now a year later, I started the SR20DET in my very own S13 240sx while I got a S14 240sx sitting in the driveway!!!!!

So after asking lots and lots of people to help me figure out the wiring nightmare that was in my engine bay, the one person who I didn't even expect to help me, did. So all my thanks go out to Rene, for his great attempt to helping me out.
Since he didn't do/seen/heard of SR20DET swap into a S13 chassis, he sure got a lot accomplished. I was able to crank her over, and she did. :D I did however have the CAS and Ignitor chip disconnected so that she wouldn't fire just yet, as I need to finish up the clutch line and some other things. But hearing her turn over made me feel very good. The beast is almost ready.......

No posts for a while due to the small incident with the curb in the S14. I got all the parts on order (that I know I need) so we'll see next week.
Midway is sending me the clutch line and Z32 brake stuff - Due on the 2nd
SPL is sending me the toe rods for S14 and Z32-S14 SS brake lines - Due in on the 3rd
and I am getting a Rear LCA and Spindle due in on Monday the 6th.
Than quick trip to an allignment shop, and were back to S13.